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Dr Naomi Braithwaite, associate professor in fashion and material culture at Nottingham Trent University, told PA Media, Burberry is the sign of British fashion, and so coming down wearing that is a really positive thing. The coat flapping open to reveal the signature check lining, collar dramatically turned up was both practical and theatrical

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At Chlo, that meant the sexy, unaffected effortlessness of bottom-hugging flares, Victorian military jackets, wispy camisoles, silk pliss goddess dresses, and, finally, the A-line 60s shifts that produced a thousand knock-offs before her exit